Vava'u

Kingdom of Tonga: The Friendly Islands

Roam at anchor at Lisa’s Beach anchorage, Vava’u, Tonga. A thick jungle full of birds. Waves lap against the lava rock walls instead of a beach. The combination made for a unique and soothing sound backdrop.

Tongans are quick to point out that they are the only Pacific island nation never to have been colonized¹. Debatable. Spend time here, and you could make the argument that they were indeed colonized—by the Christians and their missionaries. The church is central to Tongan life, its culture, and its economy. You feel its presence everywhere. It defines the social structure of the community and its values. A significant portion of a Tongan family’s wealth goes into funding the church’s operation.

19th century, King Topou I (we are currently on King Topou VI) was devout in his faith. He integrated the church doctrine into Tonga’s government. While Tonga is a constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary system, the church influences it through its moral authority. Clergy often advise on social policies. Religious values guide legislative discussions, particularly on issues like family law or public morality. It’s one reason crime is virtually non-existent. If you showed up one day with a new outboard motor, your family would start asking a LOT of questions about where it came from.

Today, the Free Wesleyan Church is the dominant sect, followed by the LDS Church, the Roman Catholic Church, the Free Church of Tonga, and the Church of Tonga—roughly in that order². Seventh Day Adventists and Jehovah’s Witnesses have a missionary presence as well.

I love Sundays here. You can hear the church singers all over the island. Everything stops on Sunday. Sunday is for rest and family. And church.

The Tonga Archipelago consists of 171 islands in four groups. We visited two of the groups: Vava’u and then Niuas. Image: Geology.com

The Tongan archipelago organizes its 171 islands into four “island groups.” From south to north: Tongatopu, Ha’apai, Vava’u, and Niuas groups. Vava’u was the most direct landfall on our passage from Niue. It also has an excellent all-weather harbor with plenty of well-maintained moorings where we could leave the boat.

Roam spent three weeks in the Vava’u island group. Two of those weeks with us aboard and one by herself on a mooring in Neiafu harbor. Salty Dog Yacht Services looked after her while we were away in Sydney. A work trip for me and a well-deserved boat break for Pam.

Neiafu is an international yachting hub. A place by virtue of its location, geography, and proximity along popular cruising routes, that attracts long-distance sailors. We met up with the World ARC boats who passed through on their 15 month journey around the world. We met sailors competing in the Mini Globe around the world race—solo sailors on 19-foot boats going all the way around the world. And we met up with friends we hadn’t seen since the Cook Islands and French Polynesia.

Neiafu harbor is a classic yachting hub by virtue of its geography and its proximity along the cruising routes through the South Pacific.

We spent the first week getting to know the city of Neiafu and the island of Vava’u. Once we returned from Australia, we sailed around the outlying anchorages. Some we shared with other cruising boats. Some we had to ourselves.

Vai and her partner Latu drove us around the island one day. She is a local fixer who runs Vaiana Yacht Services. She showed us the sights: the royal residence, the mountain overlooks, the hospital (where a friend of ours was getting stitches in his head—another story), the prison, and the Chinese-funded agricultural center³.

The prison doesn’t have any walls or fences. Only a few dorms. Some of the inmates are there just to get a break from life at home. I am not making this up.

Vai and Latu drove us around Vava’u and explained Tongan life. She is a legitimate world sailor herself, having crewed on a tall ship around the world. If you need rope splice work, a tour, a ride to the airport, or good advice, she’s got you covered.

Like the Cook Islands, Tonga makes it easy for ex-pats to start businesses. For that reason, you find some good restaurants around the island (in contrast to the culinary desert of French Polynesia, where there are fewer ex-pat businesses). We made the rounds of the waterfront eateries during our time here—some good, some excellent.

The Kraken and the Fair Seas

Ausie ex-pat Andrew Jones and his wife Carol built “The Kraken” during COVID. It became one of our favorite watering holes. When he leased the land for the restaurant, the Formosa 51, “Fair Seas” from Los Angeles, was sitting on the site and too big to move. He built around it and made it part of the restaurant’s design. He’s looking for more on the boat’s history if you have any. Latitude 38 magazine is on the case!

The "Fair Seas" sailed from Los Angeles in the late 80s. When a cyclone wrecked it in the early 90s it became the land-owner's home after he drug it ashore. It was too big to move so Kraken proprietor Andrew Jones built around it.

A Few Photos

Clearing into Vava’u, you must tie up to the commercial wharf or the fishing wharf. Neither is well suited for pleasure boats. Bring plenty of fenders. Our fancy inflatable, FenderTex fenders did the job.

Bio-security, customs, and health inspector. Each has their processes and forms (and fees). Despite all the documents you must email ahead of your arrival, clearing in always starts with a fresh set of forms that we must sit down and fill out by hand.

Neaifu has a daily produce market. Pam is an expert forager.

Ex-pat Greg runs the Tropicana Cafe, the OG cruiser watering hole in Neiafu. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, propane fills, fuel runs, rental bikes, travel advice—pretty much everything.

A cruiser hike around the island in search of a good lunch spot. L-R: Mikayla (Forty-two), Mia, Dorina (Strumis), Hazel, Jeunesse, Willow (Hudson), Jimmy (Strumis), Dale (Hudson), Jim, Christopher (Strumis), Jacob (Forty-two).

Our ongoing search for decent pizza in faraway places: In Vava’u, the nod goes to The Kraken.

Father’s Day: The best coffee on the island is at “Coffee and Teas.” Also, the best breakfast.

Vava’u has a legitimate boatyard. You could leave your boat on the hard here for cyclone season. Haulout is via ramp and hydraulic trailer. The concrete rounds are mooring blocks waiting to be deployed.

You frequently see China's investment in the Pacific islands. Roads, communications infrastructure. Agriculture in this case. The locals express suspicions over China’s motives. When I ask them about US or Australian aid investments, they say they don’t feel the same way. Maybe they are just being nice.

The school kids put on a benefit show to help fund the local public library. They invited us to sit in on their rehearsal. Amazing singers.

Competitors in the Mini Globe around the world race stopped in Neiafu for a rest. These solo sailors are sailing around the world in 19-foot boats.

Tom runs "Salty Dog Yacht Services.” He took care of Roam while we were gone. He’s sporting a new tattoo from “Sonny, Kavielata” a renowned Tongan tattoo artist here in Vava’u. He can’t get it wet for a few weeks.

“Vivid Sydney” was underway while we were visiting Sydney. One of the many things I love about this city.

Kiwis Mikayla and Jacob have been crewing their way across the South Pacific for the past few months. They spent a few days with us before catching their ferry to Nuku’alofa and the long flight home to Auckland.

Strawberry moon over Nuku’u island, Vava’u. It was the lowest moon in several decades. It won’t happen again until 2043.

Anchored off Tapana Island, Vava’u. A local family stops by selling their jewelry and crafts. We always have room for a few more things.

I can tell we have sailed west and further from the South Pacific’s amphidromic points. The tidal ranges are greater in Tonga than in French Polynesia.

Table Coral near Mala Island. Snorkeling here was notably different from French Polynesia. Few, if any, sharks!

Swallows Cave is a famous spot. You can reach it by dinghy from several anchorages. It’s big enough to motor into. You can also swim into it and hike further into the cave.

Moving between island groups in Tonga requires an inter-island clearance. More paperwork, and fees. I had a ship’s stamp made before we left Mexico. I stamp everything. Nothing makes bureaucrats smile as much as having your own stamp to stamp their forms.

Pam fakes down the main halyard tail as we get underway. It has to run freely if we need to drop the main quickly.

Dawn departure from Vava’u heading for the Niuas group. The island gave us a farewell rainbow.

Highlights

• The Kraken — best all-around eatery and bar. Have a Vava’u Sour and Soursop cheesecake.

• Basque Tavern — excellent tapas.

• Coffee & Tees — best coffee spot (arguably the best breakfast as well).

• Lisa’s Beach — Our favorite in Anchorage.

• Falaleu Deli — really good, freshly prepared meals, frozen and ready for the boat freezer. If you know Pam, you know how important this is.

• The Hideaway — floating bar with fresh margaritas and excellent fish and chips

• Snab Store Bakery — fresh daily sourdough bread. Yes, sourdough bread!

• Whale swim — this is the big reason to visit Tonga. The whale swim season starts on July 1 but is best in August and September. You must go with a licensed guide. One of the few places in the world you can legally swim with whales.

Fees for Visiting Yachts

• Bio-security: $22 TOP

• Health Pratique: $100 TOP

• Port Fees: $.45TOP / gross ton

• Neiafu moorings: $20 TOP / night

• Anchoring fees: $20 TOP / night for selected anchorages (not consistently collected).

Excerpts from the Ship’s Log

Midnight Train to Tonga

Wed May 21 2025 05:11 UTC, 18 31.115s 171 35.624w, Log: 7405

All is well. We are presently running under our Jack and Jill double head rig. No main. Daggers at 1/3. 1.5M following sea and 10-15 knots of wind.

We enjoyed a wonderful, albeit brief, stop in Niue. It is a place I would love to return. Friendly people. Epic diving. Good food. An island nation in free association with New Zealand.

There is another low due to ripple through this weekend. We thought we’d use the nice low sea state to get across to Tonga while things are smooth. Leaving at midnight ensure we will arrive Neiafu with plenty of daylight.

Land Ho, Tonga!

Wed May 21 2025 21:03 UTC, 18 32.170s 173 32.905w, Log: 7518

All is well. We are presently broad reaching under double reefed main and solent. Daggers 1/3. Seas are confused and quartering at 2M with winds in the low 20s.

Tonga has appeared off our bow, 20 miles ahead. We expect to be at the customs dock this afternoon.

We’ve lost a day of our lives. Despite being on the east side of the international date line, Tonga operates on the other side.

It was a bit rough these past 12 hours. The sloppy following seas tend to slew the boat around making it hard to move around. And we are going fast in this breeze.

The drain from our clothes washer has popped open which flooded the starboard bathroom with about an inch of seawater. Easily resolved but not until things settle down.

Muihouma point

Wed Jun 11 2025 04:20 UTC, 18 42.683s 174 02.233w

We are out! Finally escaped the harbor suction of Neiafu. We bid farewell to our young kiwi friends Jacob and Mikayla who spent a few nights aboard while waiting for their ferry to Nuku Alofa.

We dropped are mooring right after my work call and motored over to the anchorage here. Which in retrospect was not a great choice of Anchorages. But there a bunch nearby so we will move tomorrow.

Tapana Island

Thu Jun 12 2025 02:20 UTC, 18 42.598s 173 59.238w

All is well. We are anchored off Tapana Island, Vava’u, Tonga after a short motor across the lagoon. Nice spot. A local family stopped by selling their custom jewelry and crafts. We have new goodies onboard!

#10 Lisa’s Beach

Fri Jun 13, 2025 20:30 UTC, 18 42.491s 174 00.024w, Log: 7573

All is well. We are presently anchored off Lisa’s Beach, Vava’u, Tonga after a short motor around the peninsula. We are here with one other boat (Overdraft). It got oddly crowded in the other anchorage. I felt like I was in a yoga class watching our neighbor in her morning practice. We continue to enjoy these wonderful anchorages and a spell of excellent weather.

Checking out

Sun Jun 15 2025 22:20 UTC, 18 39.204s 173 59.965w, Log: 7585

All is well. We are back on one of Beluga Diving’s moorings in front of the town of Neiafu. We visited the customs office to pay our port fees and obtain an inter-island clearance. We will head to the island group of Niuatoputapu in the morning. About a day’s sail away.

Farewell Vava’u

Tue Jun 17, 2025 03:11:00 UTC, 17 42.188s 174 10.133w

All is well. We are presently 60 miles north of Vava’u sailing a broad reach under full main and Jack the Code 65 in 18 knots of breeze and 3’ quartering seas. Daggers up.

Despite being in the middle of the ocean, there are a few things you can still hit. A few islands arise and pop up as well as some sea mounts that are only 30’ deep.

We expect to make landfall on Niuatoputapu at dawn.

1. In 1900, Tonga became a British protectorate under a Treaty of Friendship, but this arrangement allowed Tonga to retain internal self-governance and its monarchy, avoiding direct colonial rule. The treaty ended in 1970, restoring full independence.

2. Tongan church membership estimates:

• Free Wesleyan Church of Tonga (34.2% of the population)

• The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church) (19.7% per 2021 Census, though LDS sources claim up to 60%)

• Roman Catholic Church (13.7% of the population)

• Free Church of Tonga (11.3% of the population)

• Church of Tonga (6.8% of the population)

3. Chinese investment doesn’t just make the Tongan’s nervous. It makes the Aussies nervous as well: