Niuatoputapu

Niua: Tonga's most remote island group

Roam at anchor in Niuatoputapu Harbour. Hakautu’utu’u Island within the lagoon in the background.

The economies of the Pacific Island nations are a blend of subsistence living, wage economy, and remittance economy (young people working abroad and sending money home)¹. Tourism, fish, and copra exports only go so far.

GDP per capita is about $5,000 (the US, by comparison, is about $81,000). The World Bank lists Tonga 91st (out of 190 countries) in terms of ease of starting a business. Better than Fiji, but still pretty tough (and in stark contrast with nearby New Zealand as the #1 best country in which to start a business).

But GDP is not the same as happiness. Despite their modest financial means, people here are universally friendly and welcoming. Violent crime is rare. Property crime is low. And they are enthusiastic about yacht tourism (the opposite of French Polynesia who glumly tolerates it).

It’s a 165nm overnight passage from Vava’u to the Niua group archipelago. Not many cruisers make the sail up there. We took advantage of a brief spell of southerly winds to make the trip.

We decided to visit the Niua Group as a way to get off the well-traveled track. A southerly wind was forecast, which would give us an easy overnight sail from Vava’u. We could spend a few days, clear customs, and wait for a good weather window to make the passage to Fiji. Moving north would also give us a better wind angle to Fiji.

Officialdom is relaxed in Niua. We found the customs lady’s WhatsApp number and arranged to meet her in her office. The next day, we had our departure clearance. Coming ashore gave us a few opportunities to walk around the island and meet some of the locals. The customs people offered to drive us around the island and sold us some fresh bananas.

Only one other boat was visiting while we were there—the German flagged, Usi, a Lagoon 410 Catamaran. Ursula and Albert from Germany have been out sailing the world for almost a decade. We traded happy hours aboard each other’s boats. Ursula had us over for Kuchen and Kaffee before we left.

It took a few more days for the weather to settle. When it did, we motored out of the lagoon and set a course for Fiji.

I am fascinated by how people here make it work, why they make it work, and what they value. But make it work, they do.

I guess that’s one reason we travel: to challenge our worldview, our assumptions, and our values.

A Few Photos

The customs office is in the village of Vaipoa, a short dinghy ride from the anchorage. The island of Tafahi in the distance.

Only one other yacht called on Niuatoputapu while we were there. The German Lagoon 410, Usi, with Albert and Ursula. They’ve been out for almost a decade.

Ursula had us over for cake and coffee.

A visit from the friendly locals.

Church is central to Tongan life and culture. The Free Wesleyan Church in the village of Hihifo.

Japan’s GGP project funded an upgraded water system for the island after it was damaged by an earthquake in 2009.

The island has a beautiful new medical center, the Likamonu Hospital.

Pigs are common around the island. Which is fine until you are startled by a loud grunt coming from the jungle while walking on the beach.

Some things are universal—like parents picking up their kids from school. The kids were eager to practice their English with us. The boys would taunt us, “palangi, palangi…” which is their slang for “white people.” Fair enough.

Excerpts from the Ship’s Log

Farewell Vava’u

Tue Jun 17 2025 0311 UTC, 17 42.188s 174 10.133w,

All is well. We are presently 60 miles north of Vava’u sailing a broad reach under full main and Jack the Code 65 in 18 knots of breeze and 3’ quartering seas. Daggers up.

Despite being in the middle of the ocean, there are a few things you can still hit. A few islands arise and pop up as well as some sea mounts that are only 30’ deep.

We expect to make landfall on Niuatoputapu at dawn.

Land Ho! Niuatoputapu

Tue Jun 17 2025 2030 UTC, 15 55.282s 173 45.667w, Log: 7770

All is well. We are presently anchored in the lagoon of Niuatoputapu, Tonga’s northern northern most island group.

We enjoyed a fast, comfortable overnight sail from Vava’u. 15-22 knot southerlies with 1M - 1.5M quartering seas on a long 8 second period. We flew the main and Code65 with a reef overnight and a brief spell with the Solent. We arrived within 30 minutes of what our PredictWind software predicted.

We are here with one other boat. The German flagged, “Usi”.

We will clear in later this afternoon and relax here until the weather opens for our passage to Fiji.

1. Young people move away to work in places like New Zealand, Australia, or the US and send money home. Almost 40% of Tonga’s GDP is remittances—second only to Tajikistan according to the World Bank.