Summer in the Tuamotus

Remote, wild, beautiful, peaceful

Roam (right) at anchor in the southeast anchorage of Tahanea, Tuamotus archipelago, French Polynesia.

The Tuamotu archipelago is the largest chain of coral atolls in the world. It covers an area roughly the size of western Europe—except with only 18,000 inhabitants on 46 of the 72 atolls. These islands are remote, wild, beautiful, and peaceful. The people are friendly. There is virtually no crime. We’ve spent the past two months sailing around here, retracing some of our path from last year.

There are fewer boats here during the summer. The transient cruising season doesn’t ramp up until April. We had many anchorages to ourselves or a few other boats. It seemed a bit more humid than when we were here last winter. Summer in the southern hemisphere, of course, is winter back home in North America.

I’d call these islands “unspoiled,” but that wouldn’t be completely true. The pearl industry has left its mark. Many of the lagoons are littered with active and abandoned pearl farms. Large areas are strewn with pearl floats and webs of netting. Sometimes we find ourselves plowing through the middle of one unexpectedly.

Pearl farm ruins on Tikehau.

The lagoons are ringed by low islands called “motus.” Many of these have been cultivated as coconut plantations to support the copra industry. Copra is the dried "meat” of the coconut and one of the main exports. It’s used in everything from animal feed to cosmetics.

In early January, we made the 350-nautical-mile passage from Tahiti east to Makemo. From there, we slowly sailed back, visiting Tahanea and Fakarava—two of our favorites from last year.

We had a loose plan. We knew we wanted to sail east and open up some options. Maybe we would head down to the Gambier Islands? Maybe back to the Marquesas? Instead, we decided to slow down and enjoy more time in the Tuamotus.

Our good friend and veteran cruising sailor, Al Fricke, was with us for about a month. He sailed on the passage from Tahiti to Makemo, on to Tahanea, and then finally to Fakarava, where he flew out.

These island lagoons and passes are known for epic snorkeling and scuba diving. We took full advantage of it this time. We dove and snorkeled the passes at all three islands.

I put my new PADI scuba re-certification to good use. Fakarava in particular is famous among scuba divers. The north pass and south passes into the lagoon are “bucket list” dives for many divers. The south pass is home to the “wall of sharks.” I hooked up with two of the dive operations in Fakarava and dove with their guides. They’d pick me up at our boat and drop me off in the afternoon after we finished our two-tank day.

Trying the new scuba gear I brought from home. Photo: Dave (Pelagic Life)

Early March brought some work commitments for me in Australia. We needed a secure place to leave the boat for a few weeks. We waited for a suitable weather window (a time period where the wind and seas are favorable for the direction we want to sail). We had a delightful two-night, 314 nautical mile passage back to Mo’orea in the Society Islands—back to the same, snug little marina where we left Roam last summer.

I’ll spend some time with clients. Pam will head back to the States to visit her family. We’ll be back in April to start heading west again. The Cook Islands, The Kingdom of Tonga, Fiji, and New Zealand all lie ahead. We can’t wait!

A Few Photos:

The weather forecast often calls for “scattered showers.” This would be that.

Nico’s copra shed on Tahanea. When he’s here, he’ll trade for crabs and lobster.

Cruise ships frequently call on Fakarava. This is National Geographic’s “Orion” anchored near us.

We said, “bon voyage” to our good friend and crewmate, Al Fricke. He headed for Mo’orea, Tahiti, and back to San Francisco. The airport in Fakarava has a dock for arrving and departing passengers.

Rotoava is the main town on Fakarva. It’s quaint and the residents are friendly. Church is a big part of life here.

“Association 193” serves as a voice for those affected by France's nuclear testing in French Polynesia.

It’s all about the supply ships. The islanders couldn’t subsist without them.

Thanks to the Cobia3 supply ship, today was a good fruit and vegetable day.

There are fresh baguettes. It must be France.

Happy hour aboard “Roam” while anchored off the town of Rotoava, Fakarava. L-R Pam, Debbie (Jabulo), Chris (Zephyr), Chris (Jabulo), Laura (Zephyr). Cruisers always bring their own ice to happy hour.

Fakarava is a world-renowned dive destination. There are many dive operations here. We dove with "O2 Fakarava” and with “Enata Diving.” Both highly recommended.

The dive shop picked us up at our boat in the morning and dropped us off in the afternoon. They include two tanks of Nitrox. We bring our own gear. I’m not yet comfortable venturing out on my own.

The Tuamotus are teeming with fish and marine life. Yellowtail fusiliers, in this photo. We see gray sharks, white-tip sharks, blackfin ocean sharks, barracuda, Napoleon fish, grouper, stonefish, eagle rays, manta rays, bat rays, and on occasion, hammerheads. The white tips often lie on the bottom and sleep.

Black tip reef sharks are the mall cops of the reef. They are everywhere.

O2 Fakarava arranged a customized “hybrid” dive trip for both snorkelers and scuba divers on the north pass of Fakarava. We all finished the dive together. A proper cheeseburger (or steak frites) was in order afterward at the Rotoava Grill. L-R Laura (Zephyr), Debbie (Jabulo), Dave and Andy (Pelagic Life), Pam, Chris (Jabulo), Chris (Zephyr).

Departing Fakarava, heading for the south pass. Great drone footage from our friend, Chris Berry (Zephyr)

A midnight spinnaker douse leaves a lot to clean up. This time I got the spinnaker down without “shrimping it” overboard. Normally we don’t fly it at night but the conditions were too perfect. I couldn’t resist. We had a great two-night sail from Fakarava to Mo’orea.

We had to weave our way through a Chinese fishing fleet loitering off the coast of Tahiti in the middle of the night. Thankfully they use AIS and we have radar.

We celebrated our wedding anniversary with dinner at Le Lotus and a night at the Intercontinental resort in Tahiti before we flew out.

The Intercontinental’s private lagoon: No sharks threaten the guests in this lagoon.

Gilbert manages Marina Mo’orea. He’s a good friend. He always finds space for us and looks after the boat when we are away.

Roam snuggled into her old spot in Marina Mo’orea, Opunohu Bay, Mo’orea, French Polynesia. She’s ready to go. So are we…

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Excerpts from our Log:

Fakarava South Pass

Mon Feb 03 2025 0130UTC, 16 30.362s 145 27.337w, Log: 5612

All is well. We are presently on a mooring off the village of Tetamanu, inside the south pass of Fakarava. One of our favorite places.

We enjoyed an easy 50-mile broad reach under a full main and Jack (Reacher) our Code 65 in 10-12 knots of breeze and alight seas. Daggers up.

The true wind angle was around 143 degrees, which is not ideal for the Code 65, but it was good enough and kept us going about 6 knots throughout the day. The asymmetrical spinnaker would have been a better choice, but it’s Sunday. A day of rest for the crew of Roam.

Our friends from Mexico aboard Arvona are here and came to meet us and take our mooring lines. A nice welcome.

We are here to dive the famous south pass!

—jim

Rotoava

Wed Feb 05 2025 03:15UTC, 16 03.921s 145 37.093w, Log: 5641

All is well. We are presently anchored off the town of Rotoava on Fakarava atoll. This is a favorite spot for us, and we are excited to be back. Some good eateries and access to fresh food again.

We enjoyed an absolutely amazing sail from the south end of the lagoon. 30 miles of flat water on a close reach / beam reach with a full main, Jack, and half daggers. Routinely exceeding 9 knots in the 8-12 knot breeze. As good as sailing gets!

—jim

Farewell Alfredo

Sat Feb 08 2025 03:36UTC, 16 03.910s 145 37.090w

A skipper could not hope for a better crew. Thank you being so generous with your time, your good humor, your enthusiasm, caring spirit, and your kind support. We will miss you.

Bon voyage in the Societies!

Tetamanu and the South Pass

Thur Feb 12 2025 01:00UTC, 16 30.247s 145 27.191w, Log: 5669

All is well. We are anchored well off the beach and the village of Tetamanu at the south end of the Fakarava lagoon. We motor sailed down from Rotoava in light winds. But not before picking up our laundry, some groceries, and a new sarong for Pam.

There is a northerly on the way but it is preceded by a few days of light winds. We can stay here for a day or two before we have to move and seek shelter in a better anchorage.

Tomorrow I get to scuba dive Fakarava’s famous “South Pass” and it’s Wall of Sharks. This is a life list dive for many scuba divers. I’m excited to go.

North for the Northerly

Wed Feb 18, 2025 22:30UTC, 16 25.641s 145 22.985w, Log: 5699

All is well. We are presently anchored against the north most motus in Fakarava. We’re here to wait out the northerly and dive the north pass.

Back in Hirifa

Wed Feb 20 2025 01:16UTC, 16 25.641s 145 22.985w

All is well. We are once again anchored in the southeast corner of the Fakarava lagoon in Hirifa. We enjoyed a half day sail down from the north end of the lagoon. We had winds from 3 knots to 38 knots with everything in between. Big rain squall in the middle. Most the main and Jack (reacher) with the daggers full down to full up.

It’s great to back here and anchored with some friends. Diving the south pass again tomorrow with the crew of Enata Diving who will pick me up from the boat on the way.

Farewell Fakarava

Sat Feb 23 2025 02:18UTC, 16 33.294s 145 32.052w

All is well. Currently running under symantha the symmetrical spinnaker (no main) making an easy 6 to 6.5 knots. Went through the south pass of Fakarava about an hour ago. Calm with about 1 to 2 knot ebb current.

I don’t know if we will ever be back here but will never forget it!

Back in Mo’orea

Mon Feb 24 2025 16:30UTC, 17 30.737s 149 51.010w, Log: 6014

All is well. We are presently hanging on a mooring deep in Opunohu Bay, Mo’orea. We made landfall at dawn after a fast 35 hour reach from Fakarava, Tuamotus.

Our route carried us north under symmetrical spinnaker. Just after midnight on the first day we doused the spinnaker, gybed, and hoisted a reefed main and the Solent.

4-6’ confused seas and 18 - 20 knots of southeasterly breeze made for a fast and noisy broad reach all the way to Tahiti and Mo’orea. Last night we had to wind our way through the Chinese fishing fleet that was idling off the coast of Tahiti.

We were here in Opunohu last July and we are here again thanks to our friend Gilbert who manages the marina. He saved us one of his new moorings.

We will be here for a few weeks while I take a work trip to Australia and Pam heads back to the states.