Niuatoputapu

The economies of the Pacific Island nations are a blend of subsistence living, wage economy, and remittance economy (young people working abroad and sending money home)1. Tourism, fish, and copra exports only go so far.

GDP per capita is about $5,000 (the US, by comparison, is about $81,000). The World Bank lists Tonga 91st (out of 190 countries) in terms of ease of starting a business. Better than Fiji, but still pretty tough (and in stark contrast with nearby New Zealand as the #1 best country in which to start a business).

But GDP is not the same as happiness. Despite their modest financial means, people here are universally friendly and welcoming. Violent crime is rare. Property crime is low. And they are enthusiastic about yacht tourism (the opposite of French Polynesia who glumly tolerates it).

We decided to visit the Niua Group as a way to get off the well-traveled track. A southerly wind was forecast, which would give us an easy overnight sail from Vava’u. We could spend a few days, clear customs, and wait for a good weather window to make the passage to Fiji. Moving north would also give us a better wind angle to Fiji.

Officialdom is relaxed in Niua. We found the customs lady’s WhatsApp number and arranged to meet her in her office. The next day, we had our departure clearance. Coming ashore gave us a few opportunities to walk around the island and meet some of the locals. The customs people offered to drive us around the island and sold us some fresh bananas.

Only one other boat was visiting while we were there—the German flagged, Usi, a Lagoon 410 Catamaran. Ursula and Albert from Germany have been out sailing the world for almost a decade. We traded happy hours aboard each other’s boats. Ursula had us over for Kuchen and Kaffee before we left.

It took a few more days for the weather to settle. When it did, we motored out of the lagoon and set a course for Fiji.

I am fascinated by how people here make it work, why they make it work, and what they value. But make it work, they do.

I guess that’s one reason we travel: to challenge our worldview, our assumptions, and our values.

A Few Photos

Excerpts from the Ship’s Log

Farewell Vava’u

Tue Jun 17 2025 0311 UTC, 17 42.188s 174 10.133w,

All is well. We are presently 60 miles north of Vava’u sailing a broad reach under full main and Jack the Code 65 in 18 knots of breeze and 3’ quartering seas. Daggers up.

Despite being in the middle of the ocean, there are a few things you can still hit. A few islands arise and pop up as well as some sea mounts that are only 30’ deep.

We expect to make landfall on Niuatoputapu at dawn.

Land Ho! Niuatoputapu

Tue Jun 17 2025 2030 UTC, 15 55.282s 173 45.667w, Log: 7770

All is well. We are presently anchored in the lagoon of Niuatoputapu, Tonga’s northern northern most island group.

We enjoyed a fast, comfortable overnight sail from Vava’u. 15-22 knot southerlies with 1M - 1.5M quartering seas on a long 8 second period. We flew the main and Code65 with a reef overnight and a brief spell with the Solent. We arrived within 30 minutes of what our PredictWind software predicted.

We are here with one other boat. The German flagged, “Usi”.

We will clear in later this afternoon and relax here until the weather opens for our passage to Fiji.